History
During the Islamic Golden Age the notable Arab Andalusian cosmetologist Abu al-Qasim al-Zahrawi (Abulcasis) invented solid lipsticks, which were perfumed stocks rolled and pressed in special molds, and he described them in his Al-Tasrif.[citation needed] In Medieval Europe, lipstick was banned by the church and was thought to be used as an 'incarnation of Satan',[4] cosmetics being 'reserved' for prostitutes.
England
Lipstick started to gain some popularity in 16th century England, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, who made bright red lips and a stark white face fashionable. By that time, lipstick was made from a blend of beeswax and red stains from plants. Only upper class women and male actors wore makeup.[5]In 1770 a British law was proposed to the Parliament that a marriage should be annulled if the woman wore cosmetics before her wedding day.[6]
In the 19th century, lipstick was not considered acceptable in Britain. When Queen Victoria took the throne in 1837, she banished lipstick[citation needed] and deemed that it was only acceptable for prostitutes. It was considered brazen and uncouth to wear makeup.[1] In the 1850s, reports were being published warning women of the dangers of using lead and vermillion in cosmetics applied to the face. By the end of the 19th century, Guerlain, a French cosmetic company, begin to manufacture lipstick. The first commercial lipstick had been invented in 1884, by perfumers in Paris, France. It was covered in silk paper and made from deer tallow, castor oil, and beeswax.[1] Before then, lipstick had been created at home.[7] Complete acceptance in England may have been slower, but appears to have arrived for the fashionable Londoner at least by 1921.[8]
United States
In the 19th century, lipstick was colored with carmine dye. Carmine dye was extracted from Cochineal, scale insects native to Mexico and Central America which live on cactus plants. Cochineal insects produce carminic acid to deter predation by other insects. Carminic acid, which forms 17% to 24% of the weight of the dried insects, can be extracted from the insect's body and eggs. Mixed with aluminum or calcium salts it makes carmine dye (also known as cochineal).[9]:36Lipstick did not come in a tube; it was applied with a brush. Carmine dye was expensive and the look of carmine colored lipstick was considered unnatural and theatrical, so lipstick was frowned upon for everyday wear. Only actors and actresses could get away with wearing lipstick. In 1880, few stage actresses wore lipstick in public.[10][11] The famous actress, Sarah Bernhardt, began wearing lipstick and rouge in public. Before the late 19th century, women only applied makeup at home. Bernhardt often applied carmine dye to her lips in public.[9]:36
In the early 1890s, Carmine was mixed with an oil and wax base. The mixture gave a natural look and it was more acceptable among women. At that time, lipstick was not sold in tube; it was sold in paper tubes, tinted papers, or in small pots.[10] The Sears Roebuck catalog first offered rouge for lips and cheeks by the late 1890s,.
In 1912, fashionable American women had come to consider lipstick acceptable: though an article in the New York Times advised on the need to apply it cautiously.[12]
By 1915, lipstick was sold in cylinder metal containers, which had been invented by Maurice Levy. Women had to slide a tiny lever at the side of the tube with the edge of their fingernail to move the lipstick up to the top of the case.[13] In 1923, the first swivel-up tube was patented by James Bruce Mason Jr. in Nashville, Tennessee. Throughout 1920s and 1930s, lipstick was packaged in cylinder tubes. Only actors and actresses in black and white films wore lipstick; lipstick had to be dark to stand out in black and white film. Thus the movie industry created a demand for lipstick. Women outside of the movie industry wanted to look like movie stars. As women started to wear lipstick for photographs, photography made lipstick acceptable among women.[10] Elizabeth Arden and Estee Lauder begin selling lipstick in their salons.[11]
During the Second World War, metal lipstick tubes were replaced by plastic and paper tubes. Lipstick was scarce during that time because some of the essential ingredients of lipstick, petroleum and castor oil, was unavailable.:50 World War II allowed women to work in engineering and scientific research, and in the late 1940s, Hazel Bishop, an organic chemist in New York and New Jersey, created the first long lasting lipstick, called No-Smear lipstick.[14] With the help of Raymond Specter, an advertiser, Bishop's lipstick business thrived.
Another form of lip color, a wax-free semi-permanent liquid formula, was invented in the 1990s by the Lip-Ink International company. Other companies have imitated the idea, putting out their own versions of long-lasting "lip stain" or "liquid lip colour."
Anthropology
According to some anthropologists, the lips are similar in appearance to the labia because they flush red and swell when they are aroused, a possible conscious or subconscious reason why women in many cultures make their lips even redder with lipstick.[15]Lipstick trends
Throughout the early 20th century, lipstick came in a limited number of shades.Dark red was one of the most popular shade throughout the 19th and 20th century. Dark red lipstick was popular in the 1920s. Flappers wore lipstick to symbolize their independence. Lipstick was worn around the lips to form a "Cupid's bow", inspired by actress Clara Bow.[16] At that time, it was proper to apply lipstick in public and during lunch, but never at dinner.[13][17]
In the early 1930s, Elizabeth Arden begin to introduce different lipstick colors. She inspired other companies to create a variety of lipstick shades.[18] In the 1930s, lipstick was seen as symbol of adult sexuality. Teenage girls believed that lipstick is a symbol of womanhood. Adults saw it as an act of rebellion. Many Americans, especially immigrants, did not accept teenage girls wearing lipstick. A study in 1937 survey revealed that over 50% of teenage girls fought with their parents over lipstick.[19]
In the mid 1940s, several teen books and magazines stressed that men prefer a natural look over a made up look. Books and magazines also warned girls that wearing cosmetics could ruin their chances of popularity and a career. The implication of these articles was that lipstick and rouge were for teen girls who acted very provocatively with men.[19] Despite the increased use of cosmetics, it was still associated with prostitution. Teen girls were discouraged from wearing cosmetics for fear that they would be mistaken for "loose" girls or prostitutes.[20]
By the 1950s, movie actresses Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor helped bring back dark red lips. A 1951 survey revealed that two-thirds of teenage girls wore lipstick.
At the end of 1950s, a cosmetic company named Gala introduced pale shimmery lipstick. Later, Max Factor created a popular lipstick color called Strawberry Meringue. Lipstick manufacturers began creating lipsticks in lavender, pale pink, white, and peach. Parents generally frowned on teen girls wearing red lipstick. Some teen girls began wearing pink and peach lipsticks, and it became a trend.[21] White lipstick remained popular in the 1960s.[19] Rock groups such as the Ronettes and the Shirelles popularized white lipstick. Girls would apply white lipstick over pink lipstick or place under-eye concealer on their lips. During that time, many lipstick were either matte, sheer, or slightly shiny.[22] In the 1960s, lipstick was associated with femininity. Women who did not wear lipstick were suspected of mental illness or lesbianism.[19]
Black lipstick became popular in the late 1970s and 1980s. In the 1950s, black lipstick had been worn by actresses staring horror films. It became popular again due in part to punk and goth subcultures.[23]
In the mid-1980s, mood lipstick became available. Mood lipsticks change colors after they are applied, supposedly based on the wearer's mood, but actually based on body chemistry.[24]Ingredients
Lipstick contains a variety of wax, oils, and emollients. Wax helps the lipstick take a solid form and aids in ease of application. Lipsticks may be made from several waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, and candelilla wax. Different types of oils and fats are also used in lipsticks, such as olive oil, mineral oil, cocoa butter, lanolin, and petrolatum. More than 50% of lipsticks made in the United States contain pig fat, castor oil, which gives them a shiny appearance. Lipsticks get their colors from a variety of dyes including, but not limited to bromo acid, D&C Red No. 21, Calcium Lake such as D&C Red 7 and D&C Red 34, and D&C Orange No. 17. Pink lipsticks are made by mixing titanium dioxide and several red shades.
Matte lipsticks contain heavy waxes, but do not have many emollients. Sheer and long lasting lipstick contain a lot of oil, while long lasting lipsticks also contain silicone oil, which seals the colors to the wearer's lips. Creme lipsticks contain more waxes than oils. Glossy lipstick contain more oil to give a shiny finish to the lips. Shimmery lipstick may contain mica, silica, fish scales, and synthetic pearl particles to give them a glittery or shimmering shine.[3]
Lipstick is made from grinding and heating ingredients. Then heated waxes are added to the mix for texture. Oils and lanolin are added for specific formula requirements. Afterwards, the hot liquid is poured onto a metal mold. The mixture is chilled and kept cool so that the lipsticks harden. Once they have hardened, they are heated in flame for half a second to create a shiny finish and to remove imperfections.[3]
Lead traces
A study by US consumer group Campaign For Safe Cosmetics, in October 2007 found 60 percent of lipsticks tested contained trace amounts of lead, especially in red lipsticks.[25] The levels of lead varied from 0.03 to 0.65 parts per million. One third of the lipsticks containing lead exceeded the 0.1ppm limit set by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for lead in candy.[26][27][edit] Use in vernacular
- "Lippy" is a common British colloquialism for lipstick.
- A general consensus amongst the gossipers in the day was the reason red lipstick became so popular was due to the development of colours that, when applied to the woman's facial lips, it created an illusion and a hint that resembled the sexual organs or sexual lips of a wanton woman anxious for sexual fulfilment.[citation needed] Typically when the color red was worn it reminded her lovers of her fertility, it was also used to attract a new lover. This display of similarities of the woman's natural coloured vulva and the natural pink/redness of the labia majoria and vulva of her genitalia was reflected on her facial lips via the application of lipstick. This a mainstay of the culture for centuries which followed, although the sexual comparisons were deemphasized in the early 19th century then briefly brought back in focus during the 1920s, in order to increase the product's marketability.
- A "lipstick lesbian" is a gay or bisexual woman who exhibits feminine gender attributes. The alliterative term is thought to have come into common usage during the 1980s in order to distinguish between lesbians who adhere to more conventional gender roles and those who do not. In some contexts, it has pejorative connotations.
- The phrase "lipstick on his collar" is a euphemism used to describe a man who is cheating on his partner.
Both women and men can recognize a tube of lipstick. It likely hasn't changed much in recent years - Same tube, same general appearance, same method of application. But did you know that the history of lipstick is filled with things like crushed beetles?
LipstickGoing back about 5,000 years into the past, ancient Mesopotamian women were possibly the inventors of lipstick. They used crushed semi-precious jewels to decorate their lips and even around their eyes. Women of the Indus Valley Civilization, which existed from about 3,000 BCE to 1,500 BCE, tinted their lips with a red colour. Not to be outdone, ancient Egyptian women used lipstick too. They used a purplish-red dye taken from seaweed, a bit of iodine and bromine mannite. It came as no surprise that this early lipstick invention also made women very ill. And Cleopatra, the most famous ancient Egyptian in history, made her lipstick from the red colour extracted from crushed carmine beetles and ants.It wasn't until the 16th century, however, that lipstick became widely used. Queen Elizabeth I, always a trendsetter, invented and popularized the look of blackened lips. Elizabethan-era lipstick was a little bit easier to handle than Cleopatra's - it was made with simple beeswax and plant-derived red dyes. However, by the time Queen Victoria took the throne, makeup in general was deemed unladylike and banished to the level of prostitutes. Yet, actresses were still allowed to wear makeup and, slowly, other women began to gravitate towards it again. In 1884, the history's first modern lipstick was introduced by perfumers in Paris - it was wrapped in silk paper and made with deer tallow, castor oil and beeswax.
In the 1920s and '30s, this invention was back in the history books. The popularity of silent films promoted the use of lipstick, as women in the films wore black lipstick. It was also around this time that the first push-up tubes of lipstick were invented. In the '30s, lipstick producers in the US produced a range of colours like light pink, dark lilac and bright red. The movie industry continued to fuel lipstick's popularity through the '40s, and it became commonplace again. It was in this period in history that saw the invention of the first lipstick tubes that rotated the lipstick as it was pushed up.
These days, lipstick is everywhere and is arguably the most popular cosmetic in the world. It's not quite as disgusting as it was in Cleopatra's day, but there have been some unsettling discoveries about the contents of lipstick recently. In late 2007, a study by a US consumer group found lipstick to contain trace amounts of lead that exceeded the limits set by the Food and Drug Administration. Though it was invented before this study, organic lipstick does now exist. It is made out of all-natural ingredients such as beeswax, castor oil and jojoba oils. This innovation, similar to lipstick in Elizabeth I's day, is an example of how the story of inventions can sometimes come full circle.
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